![]() OK – Good battery, clean terminals and connections, dash lights power up when the key is turned on, glow plugs heat as designed. If I need to replace my starter, I’m going for the “high torque gear reduction unit”. There are now some gear reduction starters that translate higher motor speeds into more torque. I have not removed it to count the teeth. I think the OEM starter has a 9 tooth pinion but the pages about the JD starter here and here say it is 10 or 11 tooth pinion. I’m not sure if it's a good thing, but my tractor has a Nippon Denso manufactured John Deere starter. There's new starters out there that draw 210 Amps. Starter – A new OEM starter is hard or impossible to find. You want 4 gauge cables to prevent too much voltage drop. Make sure the terminals and cable lugs are clean and tight on both ends of the main power cables. I had winter starting problems that all went away when I replaced a 5 year old 575 CCA battery with a brand new 850CCA battery. In a small cylinder that has 10 square inches of piston surface, that means 4500 lbs of pressure at Top Dead Center. Even a new engine won't start if it the starter won't crank it fast enough. Rule number 1: If the engine doesn’t rotate fast enough, it won’t start. Fuel and ENOUGH Compression are all you need. Volumes have been written about starting diesels – especially when it’s cold.īottom line – The fuel air mix has to get sufficiently hot to spontaneously ignite. ![]()
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